Health Leader, Killer Lipstick & Other Make-up Myths

STORY BY

Imelda Gott

You open your email box and—just as you suspected—not only do you have to suffer to be beautiful, your beauty products may just do you in.
“Designer lipsticks laced with lead.”
“Hair dyes cause Alzheimer’s.”
“Sunscreen products blind babies.”
And your all-time favorite: “Women found dead from perfume samples.”
Before we even have time to delete the email about the latest foreign exiled prince (who desperately needs our bank information to save his kingdom) we are assaulted with another urban beauty legend.

But here’s the good news: most of these e-rumors are myths. Almost all retail products in the U. S. have good safety records, says Adelaide A. Hebert, MD, professor of dermatology at The University of Texas Medical School at Houston.

The lowdown on lipstick

Although in Elizabethan England, the very stylish dusted themselves with ceruse (the powder used to achieve that lily-white look) which did contain lead, lipstick does not. The Internet myth about lipstick says that if you run your gold ring through the lipstick and it turns black, it contains lead. Oh, good goth! Hebert says that if lipstick or any other beauty product changes color, texture or odor, toss it out.

A slight risk of contamination exists, especially with “pots” of gloss if you apply them with your fingertip. Simply wash your hands before applying and don’t share.

According to Hebert, stick to established brands, and beauty won’t be the death of you. “You can avoid problem ingredients in most cosmetics by using name brands. And those in the lower price range can work as well as expensive lines.” But she adds, beware of products sold over the Internet or bought in other countries.

A Dermatologist's
Tips & Tricks
to Avoid
Make-up Mishaps

» read more...

Not a myth

The real problems for lips:

Eosin, a substance in some shades of red lipstick, may cause an allergic reaction. Simply switch to a color that doesn’t contain this dye, such as peach or pink.
Chemicals used in sunscreen protection in lipsticks may irritate lips.
“Plumping” products that purport to give thin lips that pouty look contain cayenne pepper. They may make lips sore, especially if you have an open wound or chapped lips, but they are not otherwise harmful.
Permanent lip liners (tattoos) introduce a foreign substance into your skin and may cause granulomas, permanent sores that must be cut out by a dermatologist. This same problem can occur with permanent eyeliners. Hebert says that if you choose this procedure, have it done in the controlled, sterile environment of a plastic surgeon’s office.

Sunscreens, definitely!

No legitimate documentation substantiates the “blindness in children” claim. Still, use caution when applying sunscreen. Hebert suggests if you are using a spray, especially on the face, apply it to your hands first and then rub it on your child’s face. “The new foams are fun, and the ‘giant chap stick’ types have paraffin-embedded sunscreens. Active sports people such as tennis players find these don’t run when they sweat.”

One problem with sunscreens: allergic contact dermatitis. Some people may react to the ingredients with rash, dry patches or acne-like break-outs. If you show sensitivity to one sunscreen product, Hebert suggests switching to one with only titanium oxide or zinc oxide.

Common allergens

Hebert says that some ingredients routinely cause problems. Look for these names used as fragrance or stabilizers if you react to a product:

Quaternium 15—found in everything from foundation powders, eye make-up, moisterizers to floor wax.
Paraben—a group of preservatives with a broad range of antimicrobial ability, especially against molds and yeasts.
Methylparaben—used as a preservative (in foods and beverages as well as beauty products) and a fragrance ingredient.
Thimerosal—used as a preservative in make-up, often mascara.

She says you may want to see a dermatologist specializing in contact dermatitis for allergy testing.

Hair dye and Alzheimer’s disease

As far as hair coloring causing Alzheimer’s, no study has yet to find a connection between hair dye and Alzheimer’s disease. “We don’t know what causes Alzheimer’s, but there is no documentation about hair color products,” Hebert says.

So when you receive those email messages about the dangers of beauty products, file them with the unsolicited jokes, investment opportunities and Girlfriend’s Day chain letters. But if you have serious concerns, check with your dermatologist.

(And, just for the record, “Death by Perfume Sample” is a persistent Internet hoax. See more about it at: http://www.cdc.gov)

A Dermatologist's Tips & Tricks to Avoid Make-up Mishaps

Smaller is better, at least when it comes to the opening in a cosmetics container, because there is less risk of contamination. Keep this in mind, especially in purchasing cosmetics for teenagers who might not yet have developed a great awareness of hygiene.
Don’t leave sunscreen or other cosmetics in your hot car or in the sun. The higher temperatures will change the stability.
If a product changes color, smell or texture, throw it out.
Don’t over-do. Many over-the-counter products are beneficial, but don’t overload your skin-care schedule. For instance, at-home alphahydroxy and dermabrasion treatments should not be used on the same day. Ask your dermatologist for a recommendation on products and frequency.
Having a reaction to a product? Discontinue use but don’t throw it out before you see your dermatologist. Take the product with the list of ingredients with you. “Your doctor will love you for this,” says UT Medical School dermatologist Adelaide Hebert. “With this information, we can determine the problem substance and note it on your chart.”
Change to the antibacterial cream, Polysporin ®, if you notice a reaction to Neosporin. Hebert estimates that seven percent of the population is allergic to an ingredient in Neosporin ®.
Yellow nails? The culprit may be formaldehyde. Use nail polishes that do not include it. Products like Clinique are formaldehyde-free.
Bring your own tools when you have a manicure or pedicure. Escape someone else’s germs and fungal infections.
To avoid allergic reactions to nickel posts in earrings, have a dermatologist pierce your ears, and be assured that nickel-free posts are used. When your ears heal, you will have less risk of developing an allergy to nickel.
The answer to the burning question, what products do dermatologists use? Hebert points to a survey of female dermatologists that reports her profession is just as likely to use drug store products as high-end cosmetics. In fact, she says, Olay’s Regenerist "for younger-looking skin" was the marketing prototype for StriVectin-SD, which costs about 10 times as much.
As a rule, cosmetics will last one year. Mascara has a much shorter lifespan, only three months. Products labeled “natural” that don’t contain preservatives are less stable and will not last as long.

UPDATED: 6-08-2006